Rugs

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How to choose the right rug

Gram weight — how warm does your horse need to be?

Gram weight (g) tells you how much fill is inside the rug. As a rough guide:

  • 0 g (no fill / liner) — for mild, dry weather or as an extra layer under a heavier rug.
  • 100–200 g — light warmth, good for cool autumn days or horses that run warm.
  • 300–400 g — medium warmth, suitable for cold and wet winter conditions.
  • 450 g+ — maximum warmth for very cold climates or horses that feel the cold easily.

A clipped horse generally needs one fill step warmer than an unclipped horse in the same conditions.

Denier — how tough is the outer shell?

Denier (D) measures the strength of the outer fabric. Higher denier means more resistance to tearing and wear:

  • Under 600 D — lighter and softer; good for calm, stabled horses.
  • 600–1200 D — everyday durability for most horses.
  • 1200 D+ — heavy-duty for horses that are hard on rugs, roll frequently, or live in rough paddocks.

Stable vs. turnout — which type do you need?

  • Stable rugs are designed for indoor use. They are not waterproof and should not be used in the field.
  • Turnout rugs have a waterproof outer shell and are built for outdoor use in all weather.

Waterproof vs. breathable — what is the difference?

Most turnout rugs are both waterproof and breathable, but the balance varies:

  • Waterproof keeps rain out. Look for a waterproof rating (measured in mm) — 1500 mm or more is suitable for moderate rain, while 3000 mm+ handles heavier rainfall.
  • Breathable lets moisture (sweat and body heat) escape so your horse stays comfortable and doesn't overheat. This is especially important for active horses or on milder days.

A good turnout rug should do both. If your horse sweats under their rug, look for a higher breathability rating.

Neck and shoulder fit — avoiding rubs

A well-fitting rug sits at the base of the neck without pulling forward onto the withers or pressing down on the shoulders. Key things to check:

  • The neck opening should allow free head and neck movement without gaping.
  • The chest fastening should be snug but not tight — you should be able to slide a flat hand underneath.
  • Shoulder seams positioned too far back are a common cause of rubbing. Some rugs have shaped or free-moving shoulder gussets to reduce friction.
  • If your horse gets rubs at the shoulder or wither, look for rugs with a lined neck or a slippery inner lining.

Fastenings — keeping the rug in place

Most rugs use a combination of front clips, a surcingle (belly strap), and leg straps. Here is what to look for:

  • Front clips or cross-ties — keep the chest closed. Make sure they lie flat and do not dig in.
  • Surcingles (belly straps) — loop under the belly to stop the rug from shifting. They should not be so loose that a leg can get caught, or so tight that they restrict breathing. A palm's width of slack is a common guideline.
  • Leg straps — loop around each hind leg to prevent the back of the rug from blowing up in the wind. Thread them through each other in a figure-of-eight to reduce friction between the legs.

Check all fastenings regularly for wear, especially if your horse lives out full-time.